Summary: Although some Bostonians sniff that Faneuil Hall Marketplace is "too touristy," we believe that the Faneuil Hall experience, which combines the history, the art, the people and the food of Boston, offers something for everyone. We are not surprised, therefore, that for many visitors, a trip to "Beantown" is not complete without a stop here.

Located in the middle of Boston, the four buildings collectively known as Faneuil Hall Marketplace -- Faneuil Hall, Quincy Market, North Market and South Market -- hum with the activity of shoppers, diners and sightseers day and night, attracting millions of visitors a year. The structures are grouped around a cobblestone promenade where jugglers, magicians, mimes and bands continually entertain a constant influx of passersby.

Faneuil Hall
Built in 1742 and given to the town of Boston by French Huguenot merchant Peter Faneuil, the Hall of the same name was a central marketplace offering an open food market on the first floor and a space for open meetings on the second. A fire in 1761 destroyed the original Faneuil Hall, but the building was reconstructed in time to host Samuel Adams and his compatriots as they planned Boston's revolutionary activity; the political maneuverings here earned Faneuil Hall its long-standing nickname, "Cradle of Liberty." Indeed, Faneuil Hall's historical significance has earned it a place as one of the 16 sites that make up Boston's famed Freedom Trail.

By 1805, the Hall had become too small to serve the needs of the city, and Charles Bullfinch, one of America's foremost architects, was commissioned to design the expanded structure that remains virtually unaltered. Though an 1822 city charter ended government by town meeting, Faneuil Hall remained the center of Boston political debate until well into the 1900s. During the 1970s, the building underwent a major internal renovation in order to serve the city as it does today.

Faneuil Hall's first floor continues to operate as a market, although most of the stores offer handicrafts where their predecessors sold food. We are particularly fond of the local souvenir stores here -- they offer a wide variety of traditional Boston memorabilia (t-shirts, magnets, viewbooks, etc.) at a reasonable price. The foodstuffs in the booths in this area, on the other hand, are relatively bland and overpriced compared to offerings elsewhere in Faneuil Marketplace.

The second floor is primarily taken up by the Great Hall, where Boston's town meetings were once held. Now operated by the U.S. National Park Service in cooperation with the Boston National Historical Park, this beautiful, quiet room is a great place to rest and reflect in the middle of a busy day. We recommend staying around long enough to hear one of the Ranger's lectures (held every half hour) about the history of Faneuil Hall. The talks, though not extremely dynamic, are short and very interesting.

History buffs should stop by the infrequently-visited third floor, which contains the museum and armory of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company of Massachusetts. The Company, which was begun in 1638 for the defense of the colony, has operated in Faneuil Hall since 1746.

Quincy Market
The 170-year-old Quincy Market, located directly behind Faneuil Hall, served as Boston's wholesale food distribution center until the 1960s. Today, the food stalls inside this stately granite building offer culinary delights to thousands of visitors a day, selling everything from calzones to gourmet soup to frozen yogurt.

We consider it an absolute necessity to visit Quincy Market on an empty stomach because it is impossible to sniff all the mouthwatering smells without wanting to taste a little bit of everything. It is also important to go with at least one friend so that you can share and compare your dishes. Make sure to try some of Boston's famous seafood, like a hearty bowl of clam chowder or a plate of fresh oysters, and choose from pastries, fudge, candy, Italian ice or ice cream for dessert. We recommend that you find a table in the center atrium first or you could wind up eating in the standing room only section.

Surrounding the perimeter of Quincy Market is a semi-enclosed mall where local artisans and entrepreneurs peddle their crafts in small carts. You can find some truly unique gifts here, including items which can be personalized with name tags or special designs. In general, these mini-shops are quite affordable as well as one-of-a-kind.

North and South Market
The North and South Market buildings, which grace either side of Quincy Market, house specialty stores and eateries. If you have the time and the appetite, try a few of the bars and restaurants tucked into North and South Markets. In our opinion, the best sit-down meals and drinks in the Marketplace are found along these sidelines, which are always less crowded than the central area. One of the most popular restaurants, Tex Mex, provides endless homemade salsa and chips to complement everything from their much-heralded fajitas to a savory gazpacho.

The Best Time to Go
Faneuil Hall is open on Sundays from noon to 6:00 PM and Monday through Saturday from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM. Quincy Market hours vary by store. Admission is free.

The Faneuil Hall Marketplace is almost always crowded. We recommend that you arrive in the early morning or late afternoon to minimize the risk of being swept away by the hordes of people. Visit Quincy Market first, before mealtime throngs take over, and then pass the lunch or dinner hour by relaxing in Faneuil's Great Hall. The heat averse should also note that Quincy Market's inside food court is not air-conditioned; during the summer it can be positively sweltering during peak meal times, so plan accordingly. And, of course, it is best to visit the Marketplace on a clear day, when the outdoor vendors and performers are in full swing.

Getting There
Located in the center of Boston, Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market are within walking distance of many subway or "T" stops. The closest is Government Center, which is located at the intersection of the green and blue lines and less than a block from the Marketplace. If you do not mind a slightly longer walk, take the red or green lines to Park Street and stroll through Boston Commons on your way.

by Susan McWilliams